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31 March 2004 (Wednesday)

These girls (at the airport) wanted a picture with us, so I had them also take our picture with them. 3/31/04 (photo by random Korean girl)

I know I said "never again" to the breakfast buffet but this time I just stuck to the fruit and yogurt (and had a Luna bar to round out my breakfast). This morning the tiger outside the restaurant was pacing and was very distracting--maybe he thought the people buffet looked good?

Now Sharon is gone and I think her first international experience was positive--she's already talking about getting more stamps in her passport soon! She also is in dire need of a digital camera as she was snapping photos left and right when we let her use our old digital camera...

30 March 2004 (Tuesday)

We bought a tile (and hopefully some good karma) and painted our names on it at Beomeosa temple. 3/30/04

We took the ferry to Busan today, checked into the Lotte Hotel and went to Beomeosa temple. More blossoming trees were out and there was more activity than when I went with mom two weeks ago.

We ate lunch at Subway (wow, that was good!), walked through the Gukje market, refreshed ourselves at Starbucks and walked through the Jagalchi market before we headed back to the hotel. We ate at TGIFriday's for dinner and then played at the 7-11 Arcade on the movie theater level of the Lotte Department store. We settled into our room and watched Reality Bites before we fell asleep.

29 March 2004 (Monday)

We went to TKD this morning and I got my brown belt. We met Craig for lunch at the Indian restaurant and then headed up to Lotte Mart in Tongyeong. For dinner we met Jaynie's family for dinner at the pork kalbi restaurant and then went to ice cream at Baskin Robbins.

28 March 2004 (Sunday)

On the ferry to Oedo. 3/28/04 (photo by Craig)

We took the ferry to Oedo (Paradise Island) with a group of people so I could take some photographs of Darcy, Ian, and Vincent. We went to lunch at the kimbap restaurant which Craig & Sharon both really liked and then Craig took us on a tour of the shipyard.

Sharon's Version of the Events
(Photographs in this section are property of Sharon Smith)

Paradise Island! The ferry faked us out by cruising into a little cul de sac cave (looks like a Disney ride, doesn't it?), and did a very tight three point turn to get us out. This was some sort of tourist gimmick, because the next tour boat did the same thing, but it was a great view. The island was pretty, too--as the guidebook said, crowded, touristy, but pretty. The gardens weren't all out yet, but there were some lovely blooms, various statuary, and even a little (multi)cultural area. Becky was trying to find a place to take photos without being plagued by everyone else trying either to take photos or hover near the baby. I gazed upon the scenic splendor.

Lunch was delicious--the first kimchi I've really liked and wanted to keep eating; the first Korean restaurant where I've liked everything in all the little dishes on the table. Kim-bab!

Then we toured the shipyard, which was amazing. My dad would have loved it. I wish I had retained more information from everything Craig told us (no batteries, no photos), but I will point out two interesting factoids: 1) each ship carries a spare propeller, in case it needs to be replaced--you don't want to be waiting around for replacement parts. 2) They build those huge tankers in parts--all the pipes, hull, ladders, metalwork in big pieces, then they weld the pieces together--every ladder, pipe and hull plate. The welding is stronger than the plain steel.

And that was today. I'm having too much fun--I was saying to Becky, I sent someone ahead to learn a little of the language, how to drive and navigate, and then I came over with all the tough stuff done. This is the only way to travel!

27 March 2004 (Saturday)

Cherry Blossoms on Highway 14. 3/27/04

We took it easy today and drove around the island in the afternoon. We saw the cherry blossoms along 14 and drove up to a smoke signal to get a view of Okpo and DSME. We went to mushroom bulgogi for dinner--Sharon seems to like all of the Korean food she's had so far which is great considering she was concerned for her New England taste buds!

Sharon's Version of the Events
(Photographs in this section are property of Sharon Smith)

Today was all about sleeping and driving. The drive was really beautiful--we pulled over to photograph cherry blossoms, and happened to be near a sign for a "smoke signal station." So intrepid Craig started driving up a mountain. The road got narrow and winding, I heard Korean banjos plucking in the background (metaphorically), and then suddenly...we emerge into a little field, full of playing children. There was a nice little picnic spot, an historic fire signal station (anybody seen The Two Towers? Like that) with an amazing view. Never again must I doubt you, Craig.

Later, we stopped at Hakdong Pebble Beach (Becky slept through this stop). The beach is rocky, but you mustn't take them home, so here's a photo for those who couldn't make it. The rocks did not prevent people from resting comfortably. It was quite lovely.

26 March 2004 (Friday)

Fun with sit-ups in TKD. 3/26/04 (photo by Sharon)

Sharon came to TKD today to watch us test (I tested for brown belt) and then we went to Davinci for coffee. We shopped around town in the afternoon and then went out for bulgogi, drinks, karaoke, and dancing with the girls from TKD to say farewell to Shelly.

Sharon's Version of the Events
(Photographs in this section are property of Sharon Smith)

I'm no photographer (seriously, if there's an opposite to photographer, I'm it), but I'll say that pictures can't capture this Tae Kwan Do class. I kept taking them anyway, but when you took the motion out, even when you caught the fighters in motion, you took out the poetry.

We had a great walk around the market--not a lot of photos, but I'm not really good at going places and soaking up atmosphere, but this was really good. We wandered around in stores, I bought gifts and then dumb things like mechanical pencils and stickers.

And then, oh and then. We had an amazing dinner of bulgogi--beef you stir fry at the table--and assorted other things (as always). Then we went to a bar, where I purchased, for 10000 won, the use of a marker and the right to inscribe one of the stones on the wall. I'm sorry to say we haven't a photo of this, either (the camera was a disposable and hasn't been developed yet), but I discovered that I like writing on walls.

Karaoke! This was wonderful fun--we were loud, there were echo effects in the microphone, Becky--yes, our own Becky!--got up and sang at least 3 times. I was so proud! And I topped the evening off by accidentally inhaling one of the little pieces of chocolate from the dish on the bar. It was, to use the Korea term, a blast.

25 March 2004 (Thursday)

Opening a new store is exciting stuff: these dancing girls are helping to celebrate the opening and I assume attract business to this new store. 3/25/04

Sharon and I went on a hike this morning. We saw these flowers (rhododendrons maybe?) on the hike and we stopped to do some chin-ups at the exercise area on the way to the top of the mountain.

We drove up to the chicken on the mountain restaurant to ask them to make us a chicken for dinner tonight. I think the woman understood that there would be two of us (Craig is going to the Indian restaurant with work) and that we wanted one chicken for 7 PM. Then we drove into town and went to the market (where we saw an aquarium of live frogs) and a couple of stores before we ate some of the red-bean-paste-fish Sharon has been craving since I wrote about it in September.

Sharon's Version of the Events
(Photographs in this section are property of Sharon Smith)

Well, I think Rebecca has done a respectable job of telling you what we've done so far. She very kindly did not end her account above with "and then Sharon pretty much fell asleep in the car and I had to drag her up to the apartment and throw her in the guest room," though that's pretty much what happened. I'm still so tired! The hike actually helped; Rebecca assured me that being out in the sun would help my body acclimate, and I believe that.

Hike-wise, though, I'd like to point out Korea's lovely hills. The city is sort of in a valley, and this apartment is kind of up one wall of the valley, so when you start hiking, there's some serious climbing to do. We were going to go on a hash (which is kind of a hiking club) this weekend, but I'm to embarrassed to huff and puff like that in front of strangers, so we just might not do that. The hike was good, though, and it is very funny to get 20 minutes or so entirely away from civilization and to emerge into a clearing in the forest and find yourself surrounded by middle aged ladies using dumbells and hula hoops.

The market was amazing, and I'm told it's a small one. I know Rebecca posted links just like this when she first came here, but I find it fascinating that people find it economically worthwhile to keep live octopus in a bucket on the sidewalk. That means someone's buying them. And also sea cucumbers.

Going into the grocery store today, we walked by a couple of little girls (this town is full of 8 year olds who run around in pairs with pink jackets on crossing major highways without looking left or right). One of them had tripped and fallen on the sidewalk--she had her arms wrapped around her head and she was crying. I really wanted to help her--she had scraped her knuckles and her knee--but of course it didn't mean anything when I said, "You're okay." When I was a kid, your mom tells you "See, you didn't even rip your jeans," and you realize you're all right, but it's just jibberish when I say the same thing to her. Luckily some Korean grown-ups came by a few minutes later--you don't want to leave a kid crying in the street, but we were of no use at all. It's actually the most foreign-feeling moment of the trip so far.

Also, the red bean paste fish I was so excited about? So good! It's like jam, only instead of strawberries, you have beans!

24 March 2004 (Wednesday)

I took the car ferry from Guyeoung to Angol this evening to drive from Angol to Gimhae airport (in Busan) to pick up Sharon. I was the only female traveling alone and the only foreigner on board so I got a few strange looks like they thought maybe I was lost and somehow wandered onto the ferry by mistake.

John was there to pick up Brandy, so we kept each other company while we waited for Brandy and Sharon to go through customs. Sharon made it without too much trouble (an hour delay in Detroit only set them back 15 minutes in Tokyo). I was pretty proud that I made it all the way from the airport to home (and to the airport in the first place!) all by myself. So anyone else who wants to come out to visit, I will gladly meet you at the airport to take you to our place!

22 March 2004 (Monday)

Today is the start of week four of the Self Challenge. Rachel & Jaynie are helping to keep me motivated to finish the challenge this year! I think I did well with mom here last week (I got all of my cardio, strength, and abs in and did the best I could on the nutrition challenges). Sharon has promised to help me do my best when she's here for this week's and next week's challenges. Sabeamnim did his part in helping me with the challenge (not that he knows I'm doing it!) by holding the mitts for me to kick today after Shelly kicked the mitts too hard with her broken toe (ouch!) that is (was) still healing. He is an expert mitt holder, but he took much shorter steps which resulted in many more kicks than I usually end up doing going up and down the room!

20 March 2004 (Saturday)

Everything seems to have a cartoon associated with it--even the police have this friendly little character (a mouse?).

We had an expensive, bad breakfast buffet at the Peninsula in the Lotte (never again!) and then took a taxi to the airport where we did some last-minute shopping before mom went through security. I took a taxi (again it was sickening!) to the ferry terminal and then hopped on the next ferry to Okpo. Strange to think that mom is still traveling after I've been home for hours now!

19 March 2004 (Friday)

Small Buddhas at Beomeosa temple. 3/19/04

Same thing today as yesterday with the ferry times although Craig had Christine call for us. We went to Davinci and the gift lady to pass the time while we waited for the ferry to depart. Although the ferry to Busan was smoother than yesterday, the taxi-ride to the Lotte Hotel was nauseating. We checked in and then had lunch at TGIFriday's--best burger I've had in a long time!

We took the subway to Beomeosa station and after getting mixed answers from various bus drivers, ended up taking a taxi to the Beomeosa temple. We saw these "guards" and I poked my head inside one of the rooms while no one was worshipping to see what was inside. These are a couple of detail photos around the temple grounds. We were happy to see that there were some cherry blossoms out already.

Took a bus back and followed a bunch of Jr. High-aged boys to the subway from the bus terminal. We checked out the Lotte department store before relaxing in our room before the show. Bill O'Reilly on FoxNews made relaxing almost impossible though.

Went to the Mystery of Asia, didn't get our appetizer (but it was OK as it was salmon and caviar), and they served our food in a mad procession. I would not recommend this show to a friend, but mom thought it was good--at least if you decide to go, just go for the drinks not the dinner. The first half of the show was good (highlighting traditional Korean dance and music) the second half of the show went from bad to worse... Let's just say that there was a portion of the second half where there were hand-shadows "lip-synching" to Wham's "Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go," pole-climbers, a high-wire act, hoop-jumping, two women twirling umbrellas with their feet, contortionists, and more.

18 March 2004 (Thursday)

Craig waits for us to catch up as a woman delivering lunch walks by. 3/18/04

We planned to catch the 11 AM ferry from Okpo, but when we arrived, ferry time had changed to 12 PM. Craig had planned to meet us in Busan after taking the Jangsangpo ferry at 12 and I didn't get a hold of him when I found out about the schedule change at Okpo. Craig called at 11:50 AM from Jangsangpo ferry terminal to say his ferry is canceled and drives like a banshee to the Okpo terminal just in time to make it for our ferry.

We ate lunch at Bennigan's and walked through the Gukje market--avoiding the fish/food markets because mom can't stand the smell. We went out for pork kalbi for dinner where the woman at the restaurant took special care to make sure mom's meal was good after we told her it was her first time in Korea.

17 March 2004 (Wednesday)

Mom & me at the chicken on the mountain restaurant. 03/17/04 (photo by Craig)

It was rainy all day but we went to the Tongyeong market and Lotte Mart in the afternoon. We had dinner at chicken on the mountain. Mom appears to be getting better with the chopsticks (it helps that the chicken on the mountain chopsticks are wooden instead of the stainless steel!).

16 March 2004 (Tuesday)

We went on a mini-tour of the island this afternoon--it is too bad there isn't a whole lot blooming yet but we did see some daffodils along the side of the road as well as some trees with blossoms.

15 March 2004 (Monday)

Craig demonstrating full control over his chopsticks. 3/15/04 (photo by Adele)

Mom came to TKD with me this morning to see what our class is like. After class we went to the bank to change some of her US Dollars into Korean Won then we stopped by Baskin Robbins to pick up some ice cream for Craig's birthday (we chose Mint Choco Chip and Sherbet). We ended up buying a lot more than we intended because the containers looked small until the woman behind the counter started jamming them full of ice cream!

Craig picked up Mike at the Admiral and we drove to the chicken on the mountain restaurant but when we got there it was closed! We ended up going out for beef and mushroom bulgogi. It was also really good and it put all of our chopsticks skills to the test. Mom ate a snail upon Craig's urging but regretted it as soon as she tasted it. Mom gave up on the chopsticks pretty quickly and started to use a fork shortly after the meal was started.

After dinner we came home for ice cream and Mike & Craig had some Exfeel. They enjoyed the "Excellent Feeling of the genuine sense of low caloried beer with twist off cap first in Korea."

4/21/04: Edited to add photos of TKD.

14 March 2004 (Sunday)

White day basket for mom.

Today is White Day so Craig and I picked up a white day basket for my mom in Busan while we waited for her flight to arrive from Tokyo. I took the car ferry over from Okpo and Craig drove down from Ulsan where he had been for the past few days. Mom's flight came in right on time (a little early, even!) and she says she didn't have any hassles. One of Craig's co-workers was on the flight and we ended up driving him to Okpo as well as his driver didn't show up!

13 March 2004 (Saturday)

Mike is here (from San Francisco) for work for a few days but Craig is in Ulsan! I went out with Mike tonight to a couple of bars in town but there weren't many people out so I'm afraid he got a bit of a depressing overview of Okpo's nightlife.

10 March 2004 (Wednesday)

Kimbap. 3/10/2004

Minsue took Jaynie, Russell, Alden, and me to the kimbap restaurant near TKD today. I liked the kimbap, my noodles, and Jaynie's dumplings. Their kimchi was also some of the better kimchi I've had. Now that I know what to order, I can take Craig there later.

5-6 March 2004 (Friday-Saturday)

Snow-covered trees near Daejeon. 3/6/2004

Craig and I spent 24 hours in our car (luckily in the Magnus, not the Matiz!) Friday-Saturday! Let me outline how we spent our time (not nearly as exciting as Fox's 24, but then I don't think I'd really want it to be either...):

2:30 PM (Friday): Leave apartment for Jinju to catch our flight to Seoul. It is windy and rainy on our way and I'm regretting not bringing my rain jacket but glad I brought my umbrella!

4:00 PM: Arrive in Jinju to find that our flight has been cancelled. We get on the standby lists for the next two flights to Seoul but decide that by the time the second flight arrives we could already be there if we drive and we don't want to wait around the airport for four hours just to not get on the plane (small airport, nothing to do there). We get our money back for the flights and set out for Seoul. Luckily it is now sunny so I'm not so upset about not having my rain jacket. We drive for about an hour and after we pass through one of the many tunnels on interstate 35 (a tollway), we come out the other side to see snow. Very pretty! But now I'm wondering if I should have brought a heavier coat (although I did bring my hat, scarf, & gloves).

6:00 PM: As we get closer to Daejeon (pretty big city about half-way to Seoul), the roads go from a little wet, to a little sloppy, to icy (& stopped!). We're stuck in one spot for about one hour. We are thinking it's snowing & it is Friday rush-hour in Daejeon, no big deal.

9:00 PM: After moving only a few kilometers at a time, it looks like we'll be in staring at this for a while. This isn't good as I now need to go to the bathroom and we're 5km away from the nearest rest stop. We are stopped on an elevated highway in north Daejeon. People start to give up hope of moving anytime soon. Craig and I try to learn the words to "Midnight Train to Georgia." (Craig's iPod battery has died (because he didn't charge it before we left) and we only have two CDs in the car as we were planning to fly to Seoul.)

10:30 PM: We finally decide to give up hope and take a nap. It will be a long night of driving once we finally get moving!

12:30 AM (Saturday): Craig breaks down and goes to the bathroom. I'm jealous.

1:15 AM: I finally decide to go for it. Most everyone nearby is sleeping and it is fairly dark outside as it is overcast and there are no lights on the highway. I found a semi to go behind and even inspired another woman nearby to come out to go to the bathroom! I felt like I had started a radical women's movement right there on the elevated highway to Seoul!

1:30 AM: Good thing I took my chance while I had it. The Army is now handing out soft drinks and snacks from the rest stop. They don't speak much English, so we don't find out what is going on. We eat some and Craig drinks a can of the "Cider" (like 7-Up), but I am not going to consume liquids anymore for a while now! We drift back to sleep but the Army guys knock on our windows a couple of times throughout the night. Helicopters are flying over us now as well.

4:00 AM: We hear a whistle off in the distance that grows closer. We see that the cars in front of us are now moving and there is a policeman blowing his whistle to wake us up so we can get going. We decide to pull over at the rest area to use the facilities (the Korean-style "squatters" instead of the Western-style "thrones" in the restroom don't seem nearly as bad now!), get gas, and get some snacks & drinks from the convenience store.

4:15 AM: As we pull out of the rest area, we get stopped again. We move maybe another kilometer or two, but end up falling asleep again until about 7 AM.

8:30 AM: We finally reach an exit (after staring at page 107 in our atlas for 14 hours) and turn around to come home!

2:30 PM: We make it home after spending 24 hours in the car!!

I saved the articles about the snowstorm from The Korea Herald and The Korea Times: Herald Article | Times Article 1 | Times Article 2. (Note these are PDFs, you can download the free Acrobat reader here if you don't already have it.)

4 March 2004 (Thursday)

I went on a hike this morning and when I reached the top of the hill, there were a bunch of Korean women standing around a bench yakking up a storm. I noticed there were a bunch of dishes with food in them on the bench itself, but didn't look too long because I didn't want to stare. I decided to catch my breath, drink a bit of water, and take in the view before I headed back down the trail when one of the women came over to me and handed me two clementines! I thanked her, ate one of the clementines, thanked them again, and headed back down the mountain.

1 March 2004 (Monday)

Tasty looking burgers on a Lotteria poster. 3/1/2004

Yesterday after the hash we finally made it to the "Indian Spice Guy" truck! There were actually three men selling Indian spices, seasonings, legs of lamb, etc. I got some curry, garam masala, basmati rice, and a couple of other items. It was super exciting!

Today we went to Busan because Craig had the day off for Independence Movement Day, the celebration of March 1, 1919 when Korea declared independence from Japanese colonialism. We went to Starbucks and walked through the Gukje market. We had lunch at Bennigan's, not at a little table in the market . We also walked through the underground shopping arcade to pass the time while we waited for our ferry back to Geoje Island.